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BROKEBACK BEACH
pictures and story by: Micah Weaver
Broke back beach - The story of two family
guys who leave their wives and children
behind in the quest for breathtaking
sunsets, beautiful beaches and big barrels.

Sunset over Sosua Bay
I bought a Surf Report for
the Dominican Republic back in 1994. I never
went till now. 12 years later and were
finally on our way. In researching this trip
I was struck by the confusing information
and the lack of quality photographic
documentation of this Caribbean country.
After days and days of Internet surfing I
would describe my perception of surf travel
to the DR as "blurry". Unlike
well documented surf spots like those of the
Dominican's neighbor Puerto Rico, many of
the spots on the island of Hispaniola remain
undetected.

Home Base at Ali's Surf Camp
So it was with a little bit
of apprehension we started planning. Over
Cuban sandwiches at the deli down the street
from Sand Key we discussed our mission
statement. We were tired of going on surf
trips and after surfing waist high waves
saying; "Well, you can see the potential".
Throw potential out the window, we wanna
score. We don't have a lot of money and we
don't get a lot of time off so we need to
maximize our surf traveling experience. Last
year in Puerto Rico, huge unruly surf and
chaotic winds made our 'atomico tour' less
than successful. This year, after 12 months
of looking at surf mags we had one ultimate
goal in mind with this surf mission: Score
good waves. The price tag, the level of
difficulty, the timing and
schedule would all be secondary to the
score. We wanted offshores and swell, we
wanted Indo. We only get one or two
international trips a year so lets do it
right. We put a little pressure on ourselves
to get good waves. Our primary focus would
be watching the models and waiting for the
trades to go S or SE when a trough comes off
the continent and digs into the Caribbean.
If we could time this with the arrival of a
good swell we would score.

It's head
high and empty....again.
After 3 weeks of waiting our
resolve weakened. We had our lives and
people waiting on us and we had our friends
Jacob and Rachel from the Compound already
booked and waiting for word. With some help
from Rick Davis at the Ruskin Florida NWS
office we found some good long-range models.
We pulled the trigger on Feb 2nd
as our departure, basing a trip that would
cost nine hundreds dollars on a couple
long-range models. Forecasting weather 10
days out is sketchy. But we felt confident
in the patterns and with a strong Low
forecast to be S of Hatteras on 2/4 we went
ahead and booked the trip. So were in the
airport with our other friends Steven and
Amanda who were headed to Guatemala when the
whole subject of "Broke Back
Beach" comes up. We've never even seen that
movie! We were laughing so hard. Tony and I
have never been on a trip just the two of
us. There has always been a third so with no
one else available " Broke Back" was a
hilarious theme for the entire trip
Micah: "I'll pay for this round of
beers". Tony: "That is so Broke Back."
Tony: "Can you hold the door open
for me while I get the board bag into the
room?" Micah: "What's sup "Broke Back"? And
so it went.
Reality of the Dominican: We
got to the N coast of DR on Thursday late.
It was a little too windy and late for a
surf so we checked out the town of Cabarete.
Reminded me of Jaco with tons of European
tourists and trash on the beach. 'When in
Rome, do as the Romans' does not apply here.
The Dominicans are so accustomed to
tourists, it's almost impossible to not look
like a tourist. You never see Dominican men
or women in shorts, maybe when they are
banyando at the beach. Whereas as a 250lb
tourist from Montreal or Amsterdam you can
spot a mile away with his goofy hat, pink
tank top and man purse strapped around his
pasty white or lobsterfied skin. There are
tourists everywhere. Whereas Dominican
society is rather conservative, the ladies
dress is not. As is the custom in much of
Latin America the women are dressed to be
seen. Lots of people talk about the poverty
of the DR and it is there. Corrugated tin
shacks, peddlers, prostitutes are visible in
some parts. But Dominicans in general seem
happy with life and clued into what a
beautiful, natural place they live in.
Bachata is the local music and you hear it
everywhere. People hang outside on the
corners and by the roads listening to
bachata, talking and knocking
back Presidentes while taking in the cool
trade winds. We could stand to do more of
that. They also seem to like Americans, or
if not they seem to at least tolerate us.
Euros love the DR. Our guide said "demasiado",
which in Spanish means too much. There are
men in banana hammocks everywhere. They are
so overwhelmed with Euros that sometime
their patience gets tapped out. How many
times a day can you have an ugly person from
Switzerland command you to get them
something in the funniest accent and without
thinking of giving you a tip demand that you
get it for them? Anybody would get tired of
that.

One
of the few Dominican rippers, Junior
The waves: We did not rent a car,
we did not know where the spots are.
Fortunately Tony with his charming demeanor
(Broke Back) made friends with some other
surfers at the camp. Jim and Jason were
longboarders from New Hampshire. These 2
other surfers had already been there a week.
They had a rental car and they were dialed
into all the spots. They made our trip. They
came over Friday night and offered to take
us out East the following morning at 5:30
am. We drove a rough road thru tons of
little pueblitos (small towns) in the
morning darkness before finally arriving at
a picturesque bay at 7 am. The surf was
breaking almost a quarter mile offshore but
looked sizable and it was peeling both ways.
We paddled out and had a great 3hr session
before the wind clocked a little and we got
tired out.

This is what
we had in mind ,T.C.
We checked another spot near by and it
was perfectly glassy. Whereas spot 1 was big
and carvy spot 2 was total fun zone. A hot
dog wave- When we got to the beach we were
hungry so these vendors grab us a table and
chairs and sit us down under the almendra
trees. This beach is absolutely
paradisiacal. In fact I recognize the beach
as the same spot the Quicksilver Indies
Trader stopped at two years prior with Kelly
Slater and Jason Shibata. The colorful
little shacks on the beach give it away and
the waves are fun enough for even the most
jaded pro.
Table
for 4 with a perfect left out front,
Paradise...
We surf all day and at 5pm
we decide to race back to another spot
before it gets dark. We get there an hour
before sunset and its this peeling waist to
chest high perfect left in the middle of a
beautiful bay. By the time we get out of the
water its dark and one of the best surfing
days of our lives is coming to an end. 3
spots, three distinct world class waves and
three sessions all in one day. Thanks Jim
and Jason! ( Broke Back).

Micah at spot
#2 this day
Jacob and Rachel after being w/o boards
for 2 days (thanks American Airlines) are
needing to catch some good surf, they also
have a rental so they come the next morning
and pick us up and were headed out east
again. The surf is slightly smaller but
still plenty fun.

Micah and Jacob in the "Brokeback" pose
The next day is our final
day, we have no more friends to pick us up
so we end up riding what we call "the kook
bus" with all the other newbies from Holland
and Switzerland out to the local spot. The
local spot is a disaster. Waves are waist to
chest, inconsistent and with 30 surfers from
all over the world surfing their reef
booties across the mushy faces our last day
is not looking that good. Fortunately, with
the DR good waves are always just around the
corner and we walk up the beach a quarter
mile and find a reeling left point break
that is Tony's dream wave. Jacob shows up
and we have a fun last session. The kook bus
went back to the camp w/o me so I take some
long, last moments to sit on the beach and
meditate before catching a ride back to
town. The Caribbean is so awesome! What a
gift our creator has given us. You can have
your snow boarding vacays in Aspen. I will
keep going back to the Caribe for as long as
I live on this planet because it is such a
special place. As for Broke Back, Tony and I
got along fine all buy ourselves and we
really didn't have any weird situations.
Well there was one: After watching the Super
Bowl at a local bar we caught a motoconcho
back to the camp. There I was on a little
Honda motorcycle with my arms wrapped around
some Dominican kid's waist and Tony riding
right behind me on the same seat. "Broke
Back" We're such homophobes…too weird.
 
Future
Dominican ripper on a $5 boogie board

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